Catherine Bellamy explores post-totalitarian Hungary where every glass of beer reminds the drinker of foreign oppression, where the shadow economy is grossly underestimated, where real cream is a real delight and much else besides.

Demonstrations began on September 17 in Hungary after a speech by the Prime Minister had been leaked, in which he said that the government lied to the people to stay in power. The protests turned violent: a group of extreme rightists and football fans besieged the public service television, burned